How To Get Rid Of St. Augustine Grass: A Technical Guide To Eradication

How To Get Rid Of St. Augustine Grass: A Technical Guide To Eradication

St. Augustine Grass Guide: Shade-Tolerant Lawn Care Tips - usasod.com

Removing St. Augustine grass requires a multi-stage approach centered on total vegetation control because the species propagates through aggressive above-ground stolons that rapidly regenerate from remaining nodes. Success depends on achieving a complete chemical translocation to the root system or total soil solarization to neutralize the dense mat of rhizomatous material.


Pre-Operation Site Assessment and Equipment Requirements

St. Augustine grass (Stenotaphrum secundatum) is a vigorous, shade-tolerant perennial that creates a thick, spongy thatch layer, making it highly resistant to mechanical removal. Before beginning the eradication process, you must account for the specific geography of the lawn, the proximity to desired ornamental plants, and the environmental impact of your chosen method.



  • Essential Equipment: High-capacity backpack sprayer (minimum 4-gallon capacity), concentrated glyphosate (41% concentration or higher), non-ionic surfactant for herbicide adhesion, heavy-duty sod cutter for mechanical removal, and UV-stabilized 4-mil clear plastic sheeting for solarization.
  • Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Nitrile chemical-resistant gloves, ANSI-rated eye protection, long-sleeved clothing, and protective footwear to prevent dermal exposure to systemic herbicides.
  • Planning Benchmarks:

    • Timeframe: 4 to 8 weeks for total chemical termination; 6 to 10 weeks for effective solarization.
    • Budgetary Scope: Mechanical removal is the highest cost due to equipment rental and debris disposal fees, while chemical application is the most cost-effective but requires high attention to detail.

Executing the St. Augustine Eradication Workflow



Step 1: Mechanical De-thatching and Stress Induction

Prior to any chemical application, you must reduce the density of the thatch layer. St. Augustine grass stores significant energy in its stolons; removing the upper canopy allows for better penetration of herbicide. Use a power rake or a manual dethatcher to rip through the matting.

Pro-Tip: Perform this step on a dry day, then apply water 48 hours later to encourage the grass to break dormancy. Stressing the plant through minor trauma makes it more receptive to absorbing systemic agents.



Step 2: Systemic Herbicide Application

Glyphosate is the industry-standard systemic herbicide for this process. It must be applied when the grass is actively growing and not under drought stress. Mix the glyphosate with a non-ionic surfactant to ensure the solution penetrates the waxy cuticle of the St. Augustine blade. Apply the solution until the foliage is wet but not dripping.

Warning: Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide. Overspray will kill any surrounding vegetation, including shrubs and trees. Use a cardboard shield or a cone spray attachment to protect desirable plants within a three-foot radius.



Step 3: Secondary Treatment and Tillage

A single application is rarely sufficient due to the node-rich structure of St. Augustine stolons. Wait 14 to 21 days for the grass to brown completely. If green patches persist, apply a second round of herbicide. Once the area is thoroughly necrotic, use a rotary tiller to break up the soil. This exposes any deep-seated nodes that may have escaped the initial chemical contact.



Step 4: Soil Solarization for Residual Control

If you prefer an organic or zero-herbicide approach, or to ensure no stolons remain after tillage, deploy solarization. Moisten the soil deeply, then cover the area with clear 4-mil plastic sheeting. Seal the edges with soil or landscape staples to create an airtight environment. The greenhouse effect will raise soil temperatures to levels that effectively cook the remaining root structure over a 6-week period during peak summer.


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Eradication Method Comparison and Technical Specifications



Method Efficacy Threshold Resource Intensity Chemical Dependency
Glyphosate Spraying 95-98% (Post-emergent) Moderate High
Sod Cutting 80-85% (Mechanical) High (Labor) None
Soil Solarization 90-95% (Thermal) Moderate (Time) None
Tillage & Excavation 70-75% (Manual) Extreme None

Common Field Failures and Remediation Protocols



  • Failure Scenario: Rapid Rebound Growth

    • Root Cause: Failure to account for deep-seated nodes or incomplete herbicide coverage of the stolon network.
    • Actionable Fix: Implement a "spot-spray" regimen for any emergent shoots within 72 hours of identification to prevent the plant from re-establishing a photosynthetic base.
  • Failure Scenario: Herbicide Runoff Affecting Desirable Plants

    • Root Cause: Application during periods of high wind or soil saturation, causing the herbicide to leach laterally.
    • Actionable Fix: Cease application immediately. Flush the area with water if the chemical has not yet dried, and install physical root barriers around sensitive ornamental beds.
  • Failure Scenario: Incomplete Solarization

    • Root Cause: Use of black plastic rather than clear plastic, or improper sealing of the perimeter edges.
    • Actionable Fix: Replace with UV-stabilized clear plastic. Ensure the edges are buried at least 6 inches deep to maintain the internal thermal trap.

Frequently Asked Questions



Will mowing St. Augustine grass shorter eventually kill it?

No, mowing short will only encourage the grass to grow more laterally, increasing the density of the stolon network. St. Augustine is highly resilient to frequent cutting, and this practice will make future removal significantly more difficult.



Can I just smother the St. Augustine grass with mulch?

Smothering with wood chips or landscape fabric is rarely successful because the stolons are capable of creeping under and around obstructions to seek light. You must kill the root system completely before applying organic mulch as a long-term barrier.



How do I know if the roots are truly dead?

Inspect the stolons by pulling them from the soil after the chemical treatment. If the stems are brown, brittle, and snap easily without showing white, pulpy tissue inside, the plant has successfully reached the point of expiration.



Is it necessary to remove the dead thatch after the grass dies?

Yes, removing the dead biomass is critical. Leaving the thick layer of necrotic St. Augustine will prevent new seeds or sod from making contact with the soil, leading to poor establishment of your new landscaping.

Finalize Your Landscape Restoration

Successfully removing St. Augustine is the essential first step toward reclaiming your landscape for more desirable turf or garden species. Contact a soil analysis specialist today to ensure your substrate is properly prepared for your next planting phase.


St. Augustine Grass Care Guide - Andersons Lawn

St. Augustine Grass Care Guide - Andersons Lawn

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