How To Install Cedar Shake Siding Shingles: The Definitive Professional Guide
Installing cedar shake siding shingles requires meticulous moisture barrier management, precise exposure spacing, and corrosion-resistant fasteners to prevent buckling and premature rot. By maintaining proper 1/4-inch expansion gaps between shakes and adhering to the manufacturer's recommended nail placement, you will achieve a weather-tight, aesthetically striking exterior envelope that lasts for decades.
Essential Preparation and Material Staging
Achieving a professional-grade cedar shake installation demands careful planning regarding acclimatization, building wrap mechanics, and specialized siding tools. Cedar shakes and shingles must be allowed to dry and acclimatize to local relative humidity levels on-site for at least 48 hours prior to application. Storing them in a dry, covered area prevents subsequent shrinkage that can pull fasteners through the wood faces.
- Essential Gear and Tools: Pneumatic siding nailer or hot-dipped galvanized/stainless steel box nails, chalk line, stainless steel staples, tin snips, utility knife with hook blades, hammer, tape measure, and a Story Pole (measuring stick marked with course exposures).
- Materials and Substrate Requirements: Number 1 Grade Western Red Cedar or Atlantic White Cedar shakes, 1x4 furring strips (if using open construction), 30-pound asphalt-saturated felt paper or breathable house wrap, and pre-formed corner pieces.
- Standards and Metrics: Comply with Cedar Bureau guidelines. Minimum roof/wall pitch requirements, 5-inch to 7.5-inch maximum exposure for standard 18-inch and 24-inch shakes, and a 1/4-inch expansion gap between individual shake units.
- Budget and Timeline Benchmarks: Expect an installation rate of 100 to 150 square feet (one square) per day for an experienced two-person crew, depending on architectural complexity, window cutouts, and corner details.
Step-by-Step Cedar Shake Installation Workflow
Step 1: Installing the Weather-Resistitive Barrier and Flashing
Begin by applying a high-performance weather-resistitive barrier (WRB) or breathable house wrap over the exterior wall sheathing, taping all seams in accordance with local building codes. Over the WRB, install a woven or three-dimensional drainage mat to allow continuous back-ventilation behind the cedar shakes, preventing moisture entrapment. Install metal flashing around all window frames, doors, and transitions before placing any wood products.
Warning: Never install cedar shakes directly over untreated plywood or OSB without a drainage mat or felt paper interleaving; direct contact with alkaline-rich sheathing materials causes rapid chemical degradation and tannin staining of the cedar.
Step 2: Establishing the Starter Course and Level Lines
Establish a perfectly level reference line around the entire perimeter of the structure using a transit level or a water level, accounting for the desired overhang below the rim joist (typically 1 inch below the sill plate). Install a double-thick starter course at the base of the wall using lower-grade shakes or trimmed shingles, offsetting the vertical joints by at least 1 1/2 inches. Snap chalk lines for every subsequent course using your Story Pole to ensure courses remain plumb and level across broad expanses of wall.
Pro-Tip: Fasten the starter course with its bottom edge hanging approximately 1/2 inch below the foundation line to direct cascading rainwater completely clear of the foundation wall.
Step 3: Hanging and Fastening the Field Shakes
Select individual shakes, check their width, and place them along your chalk line, leaving a 1/4-inch expansion gap between adjacent shakes to accommodate seasonal wood swelling during wet weather cycles. Drive two corrosion-resistant, ring-shank nails per shake, positioning them approximately 3/4 inch from each edge and 1 inch to 2 inches above the butt line of the succeeding course. Ensure the nail heads are driven flush with the wood surface without sinking into the wood fibers, which can crush the grain and cause splitting.
Step 4: Staggering Joints and Interleaving Felt Paper
Maintain a strict vertical joint offset rule: ensure that the side joints of any two shakes in adjacent courses are separated by a minimum of 1 1/2 inches, and never let joints align vertically within any three consecutive courses. Lay a strip of 30-pound asphalt-saturated felt paper horizontally above the top edge of each completed course, stapling it to the sheathing so the bottom edge of the felt overlaps the top of the shake course by at least 2 inches. This acts as a secondary watershed protecting the inner wall cavity.
Step 5: Constructing Interlocking Inside and Outside Corners
Build or purchase factory-made corner assemblies or weave the corner shakes on-site using a precise alternating overlap method. For woven outside corners, alternate the overlapping shake from wall to wall on each consecutive course, trimming the mating edges at a clean 45-degree bevel for a tight, weather-resistant vertical seam. Drive a fastener close to the corner edge on each face to secure the mitered intersection against wind uplift.
OUR PASSTHROUGH TRANSFORMATION + CEDAR SHAKE INSTALL - Nadine Stay
Cedar Shake vs. Traditional Siding Material Specifications
| Technical Parameter | Western Red Cedar Shakes | Fiber Cement Siding | Vinyl Siding |
|---|---|---|---|
| Material Composition | Natural heartwood timber | Cellulose fiber and cement | Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) |
| Expected Lifespan | 30 to 50+ years (with maintenance) | 50+ years | 20 to 30 years |
| Wind Resistance Rating | Up to 130 MPH (properly nailed) | Up to 130 MPH | 110 MPH (standard profiles) |
| Thermal Insulation Value | High natural R-value (approx. R-1.2 per inch) | Negligible thermal value | Low (requires insulated backing) |
| Maintenance Protocol | Re-stain/seal every 3 to 7 years | Repaint every 10 to 15 years | Periodic washing with soap and water |
Common Site Failures and Field Fixes
- Root Cause: Fasteners driven too deeply or using standard electro-galvanized nails instead of hot-dipped zinc or stainless steel.Actionable Fix: Pry out failing fasteners without damaging the surrounding wood face, insert a corrosion-resistant ring-shank replacement nail slightly offset from the original hole, and seal the old penetration with exterior-grade elastomeric wood filler.
- Root Cause: Insufficient expansion spacing between individual shake units, resulting in buckling and cupping during high-humidity periods.Actionable Fix: Carefully cut out the buckled shake using a specialized multi-tool or fine-tooth hand saw, trim the edges to restore the mandatory 1/4-inch gap, and reinstall a properly sized replacement shake.
- Root Cause: Bottom courses installed flush with or above the foundation without adequate clearance, causing ground moisture absorption and rot.Actionable Fix: Cut the bottom courses back using a circular saw fitted with a dust shroud and install a Z-flashing drip edge along with a secondary starter strip to elevate the wood away from moisture sources.
- Root Cause: Lack of interleaving felt paper between courses, allowing wind-driven rain to penetrate the inner sheathing.Actionable Fix: If minor leaks occur, inject polyurethane construction adhesive behind loosened shake tongues, clamp the units until cured, and retrofit vertical flashing channels around penetrations.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between cedar shakes and cedar shingles?
Cedar shakes are split from logs by hand or machine, resulting in a rustic, rugged, and uneven textured face with varying thicknesses. Cedar shingles are sawn smooth on both sides by machinery, providing a tailored, uniform, and thinner profile suited for refined architectural styles.
Do I need to treat or seal cedar shake siding?
Untreated cedar naturally weathers to a sophisticated silver-gray patina over time due to UV exposure. However, applying a penetrating semi-transparent oil-based stain or wood preservative significantly extends its structural lifespan, prevents moisture damage, and inhibits fungal decay.
What type of nails should be used for cedar siding?
You must use hot-dipped galvanized steel or 316 stainless steel ring-shank nails to prevent chemical reactions with natural cedar extractives. Standard steel nails react with tannins in the wood, causing unsightly black or blue streaking and premature fastener corrosion.
How do I calculate how many squares of cedar shakes to order?
Measure the total exterior wall surface area in square feet, subtract the square footage of all windows and doors, and add 10% to 15% to account for cutting waste, trimming, and corner fitting. Divide the final adjusted square footage by 100 to determine the total number of siding squares required.
Ready to transform your home exterior with premium cedar shake siding? Contact our expert technical installation team today to schedule your comprehensive project consultation and material estimate.